Tag Archives: Mexico

Dear Diary:

Selections from my journal entries the week of December 12, 2022. What goes through the head of a sixty-something gay man? Read on.

Trouble Sleeping.

Lots of trouble sleeping last night. In fact, I did the thing you’re supposed to do when you find yourself tossing and turning for more than 20 or so minutes, which is to get up and read. Which I did for half an hour, then was able to go to sleep. And you know what, I got a sleep score in the 80s, even though the duration ended up only being like 5.5 hours. It was quality time.

I really think I’m EATING TOO LATE and also that CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM at night is counter-productive. I have to remember that chocolate does contain caffeine even in very small amounts and probably enough of a stimulant to keep me awake, as is digestion of food when I’ve eaten too close to bedtime.

Trees.

Took pictures of ginkgos. Posted it to Instagram. They’re so pretty. Especially all gold in bright morning sun.

Checking Travel Plans.

Checking Airbnb Mexico City:

Yes, it does have space for another guest. So I can invite Billy if he wants to come down for a few days.

I guess I should check the others for similar opportunities. I believe all three are one bedrooms, so that portends well. (note – going to Mexico again April-June 2023)

Neurotic Finance.

It seems like it’s taken forever to get to the middle of this month. And I still have a ton of money to get me through the month. It’s probably connected to the fact that I spent SO much less than usual in November, mainly due to my trip to Mexico and my spending (or lack of it) there. Not only did I not spend anywhere near what I budgeted for day-to-day, I came back with the equivalent of about $225 USD in pesos for the next trip down there in April.

Here’s the thing: if you don’t go much of anywhere and do much of anything, you will save money. I think that has a lot to do with it. It’s been cold since I got back—to me it seems colder than a usual fall or winter here. Maybe that’s because when I left it was warm summery weather, I went to a very hot place (Merida) so when I returned to somewhat seasonal temperatures here, it just seemed colder.

It was cold: blizzard in the Sierras earlier this week.

Angst and Doubt

And so I’ve been hibernating. Working out here at home, only a couple of social engagements, even AA Meetings I’m doing on zoom. (That just makes so much more sense, in a way – why drive a half hour there and back when I can do the same meeting with no commute at all?)

Interestingly, when I can’t write something or can’t figure out where to go from where I am in a story, my head tells me I’m a horrible writer who can’t write anything anyway. Even though always these roadblocks tend to dissipate with enough time and serendipity. Or, the answer will come during a hike.

Blogger hiking in Palm Springs earlier this year

Also, I made this. Roasted vegetables and sweet potato in quinoa. For lunches.

And that was the week of December 12, 2022.

Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta

On to the final part of the Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta!

I was a little worried about morning traffic from Chapala to the Central de Autobuses de Guadalajara in Tlaquepaque, but I needn’t have been. An acquaintance of Chris and Terry’s who drove a cab picked me at the designated time and got me there in less than half an hour.

The ETN bus ride took about 6 hours. Once in PV mid-afternoon, I called an Uber from the bus station (which is in the north of the city, not too far from the airport, actually).

In PV I also stayed at an AirBnb. (In fact the only hotel I stayed at the entire trip was the Real Maestranza in Guadalajara.) It was on a crazy hill (see photos). I can’t say that I wasn’t warned, as the place description and the all the reviews mentioned it.

Beachfront/Zona Romantica

PV is well-known as one of Mexico’s premier beach resort cities which is also extremely popular with the LGBT community (both Mexican and foreigners). The week I happened to be there coincided with Gay Pride Week there, so there was probably even more going on in that regard than usual.

You’ve Got Friends in Puerto Vallarta

It was great to end the trip in PV for a few reasons, not the least of which is that I had three friends who happened to be there: Michael, a friend from LA who lives in PV about half the year; James, another LA friend who was on vacation for a few days there; and Jim, that friend who moved to Mexico City who was also on a little vacation in PV (and who has since moved from CDMX to PV).

I have to admit that as I get older I’m becoming one of those people whose fascination with the beach ends at the edge of the sand, looking out. It’s so pretty! It smells so nice!

But I don’t really want to lie in the hot sand with my body slathered in oils (to which the sand will stick) to frolic in waves of questionable cleanliness. (I guess I’ve turned into that guy.)

But I was down for long walks along the Malecon, which was the best way to get from where I was staying, a couple of kms north of the main touristy area, the Zona Romantica (which is also the gay area).

Doesn’t quite capture how steep/treacherous this hill to the Airbnb was, but you get an idea. I loved it.

One of the best things I did was go to dinner with James at Casa Kimberly, a fine restaurant located in Liz Taylor‘s old Puerto Vallarta house. Here’s a photo of me on the footbridge there:

Vallarta Botanical Garden

One of the days Michael took me to the Vallarta Botanical Garden (along with Billie, his pup). Well worth the trip. We walked around the grounds, looked at flowers, plants and some fauna (I saw an iguana! In the wild!) and then had lunch. A perfect activity for the men of a certain age (and dogs of a certain age). We took a cab back into town and I thought that would be the last ride of my life – the guy was constantly passing on the two lane cliffside road.

But — here I am. Adios Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta – till next time.

Michael’s dog Billie went with us to the Garden

Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala

The bus trip from Guanajuato to Guadalajara took about four hours. I had been here before, and also to Lake Chapala, which is about 30 miles south of the city. The Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala began with a ride on the city’s newest rail line (Linea tres), which conveniently went directly from the bus station to the Centro.

I stayed at the Hotel Real Maestranza, just a couple of blocks from the Centro stop so I was able to walk there on a lovely afternoon. It was a beautiful modern hotel, with a gym I didn’t get to use (sadly). Price-wise it was extremely reasonable. I’d go back anytime.

Guadalajara Centro area

I mainly wanted to see my friends Chris and (his husband) Terry, who were old friends of mine from California and who’d made the move to Mexico. They owned a home in Chapala and also had an apartment in Guadalajara, not far from where I stayed.

While waiting to connect with Chris, I did do a little walking tour of the University area, which is just to the west of the Centro:

This statue of Antonio Alcalde is somewhat imposing and it makes him look quite frightening but Wikipedia says:

“The people came to respect their bishop and knew him best for his gentle and affable attitude while noting him as a jovial but direct individual. He had a bed of simple sheepskin on the bare ground and would use wood as his pillow. He wore a rough blanket in the winter and fasted often. He often fed on vegetables but would sometimes add meat to his meal on some occasions”

Among other accomplishments, he was one of the founders of the University of Guadalajara – so perhaps not as scary as the statue suggests.

Lake Chapala/Ajijic

I spent several days in Chapala (also seeing Ajijic, the adjacent town) at an AirBnb, just a couple of blocks from the lake itself. Apparently the lake is safe enough to swim in, though I did not see any swimmers while I was there.

It’s Mexico’s largest lake and quite beautiful (see photos). Close enough to Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city, it’s a popular and convenient getaway. Also, Lake Chapala and environs (including Ajijic) have large expat communities from the U.S. and Canada.

My old friends Chris and Terry have lived there now for about three years (from California). Some of the views below are from their rooftop mirador in the neighborhood San Antonio Tlayacapan, along the lake between Chapala and Ajijic.

A great few days for the Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala. Next, and finally, on to Puerto Vallarta.

Mexico Trip: Guanajuato

On the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato, the ETN bus ride from San Miguel de Allende was only a couple of hours, if that. Another hill town, it’s the eponymous capital of the Mexican state of Guanajuato.

Also like San Miguel de Allende, a UNESCO Heritage Site. Fascinating city built on and into hills, with staircases, at least one funicular, and below ground streets in tunnels (which I read used to be rivers or creeks).

Homes are often painted in colorful pastels on the many hills (see pix). The Airbnb where I stayed in Guanajuato was part of a complex that included several Airbnb units, as well as an enormous common patio as well as an attached restaurant/coffeehouse.

Shortly after I checked in it was time for lunch, so I snapped this picture from the little restaurant right after a downpour began:

Las Cuatro Puertas cafe, looking out at Tapetepa

You can see the painted houses on the hill opposite. (The young couple walking on the sidewalk across the street was perfectly framed in the doorway kissing, but I wasn’t quick enough to get the shot!)

Centro

Like so many historical city centers in Mexico, Guanajuato is also centered around a church, this one being the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato. The first time I walked over there, the day I got to the city, there was already a procession and some kind of celebration (involving costumed skits, I don’t know what of though) in front of the church.

There were guys up in the bell tower throwing firecrackers, a band playing and also singing coming from inside the church. Quite the cacophony but totally intriguing and enjoyable.

The AirBnb

As mentioned, I stayed at an AirBnb that was on Calle Tepetapa which turns into Avenida Juarez (kind of the main drag to the center of the old town). It was run by a couple who had several units to rent out, as well as being the owners/operators of the cafe in front.

The unit I stayed in was hidden in the back, down several flights of stairs, across a bridge and in back of a huge shared patio, so although in the center of town, was sufficiently quiet and also felt very secure. Some photos:

Mercado Hidalgo, Funicular

Couple of other notable sights in Centro: The giant Hidalgo market, mostly indoors but with a significant spillover to adjacent patios under a lot of shade trees. Most of the vendors sold food items but there was a little bit of everything here. Loved this building, originally designed as a train depot but ending as a market.

The funicular goes up to the statue of El Pipila, a hero of the Mexican independence era. There are outstanding views from up top, also lots of food and souvenir vendors. If you’re more adventurous than I was, you can walk up or down through the warren of narrow alleys and staircases. Some photos:

Las Minas

Guanajuato was at the center of silver mining for a long historical period, as it sits in the middle of one of the richest silver mining areas the world has known (the Valenciana Mine). I took a short trip up the hill to the mines and did the tour, which was underground and I do not have photos of.

It was very interesting, somewhat claustrophobic (but I was OK). The guide was Spanish-speaking only, so I got a few things here and there but where I was able to read placards it filled in most of the picture.

The mine entrance I went to (Bocamina San Cayetano) was right behind the church Templo de San Cayetano Confesor, which has altars filled with locally produced silver artifacts.

Some photos:

I liked this building in the mines area.

Other Guanajuato

Last but certainly not least, some random shots around the city, including my visit to Las Momias – the mummies, perhaps Guanajuato’s most infamous “sight.” Others I will identify in the captions. So much for this portion of the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato. Next up: On to Guadalajara and Lake Chapala.

Mexico Trip: San Miguel de Allende

I wanted to spend a few days on my Mexico Trip in San Miguel de Allende, or SMA as I’ve seen it short-handed. It’s long been a place with lots of immigrants (or expats or whatever you want to call them) from the U.S. and Canada.

Even though I read somewhere that it was kind of “Disneyland version of Mexico for expats” I really wanted to check it out for myself.

Was only there for three days and nights but I found it delightful.

Situated on a number of hills in a kind of “bowl,” there are amazing vistas of the town from all over but especially along the rim.

Centro Historico and sights there

The older, colonial part of town spans a few different hills in the center of the city. At the top of the biggest one stands the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, a beautiful church, somewhat salmon-colored.

Across from the church is the leafy plaza Jardin Allende. As you might expect, a central gathering spot for tourists and locals alike (or at least it seemed to me). Lots of food, vendors, musicians, people watching.

Here’s some photos from the Centro Historico area of San Miguel de Allende:

I enjoyed the way so many doorways were framed with flowers or other decorations.

Jardin Botanico

One of the places I would not miss is the Botanical Garden, or El Charco del Ingenio, which sits on the edge of town up on a ridge.

It has a few pretty easy yet private trails showing flora and some fauna from this area of Mexico’s Central Highlands. It also is the location of an old aqueduct which still has a lot of the ruined infrastructure from that era still visible.

I spent a few lovely, quiet hours there and had some fresh juice and water before leaving. Since the (short) way back to town was all downhill, I decided to trust the GPS on the phone and walk. It was a hot hike but worth it, as I had to go through some of SMA’s tonier areas. So, if you’re adventurous. . .

Photos from the Jardin Botanico:

The Airbnb

This time (as opposed to CDMX) I did take a few photos of the Airbnb. It was on three levels: ground floor was a full kitchen with a table and chairs. Up one flight of outside stairs was the bedroom, closet and bathroom level. Another flight of stairs led you to the roof deck (sometimes they call this a mirador in Mexico).

Un Poco Mas

Thus ended my Mexico Trip sojourn to San Miguel de Allende. Back to the Bus Station to catch the ETN to Guanajuato (next post). Some random shots to end with. . .

Trip to Mexico: Mexico City, Part 4

My trip to Mexico City wouldn’t be complete without a set of photos which may seem to be random. Maybe they are — things that just caught my attention in the moment and decided to take a picture.

That’s what we do these days, right? Anyway, will try to explain the images in the captions.

Colonia Cuauhtemoc

The neighborhood I stayed in, a few blocks north of the Angel de Independencia.

Centro Historico

A lot of these photos below were taken from the tour bus I took to Las Piramides de Teotihuacan. (so at street level but raised a bit)

I was amazed at how orderly the Chilangos were for bus boarding.

Condesa, Polanco, Roma Norte

Some of the nicer neighborhoods in central CDMX that I walked around in – also my friend who’d moved there (at the time), Jim, lived in Condesa.

My friend Jim McKie and I stopped for lunch in Polanco.

From Mexico City I took an ETN bus to San Miguel de Allende. Next post!

Mexico City, Part 3

Trip to Mexico, Mexico City Part 3: Mexico City has a signature park in the center of town, iconic in the way Central is for New York or Golden Gate is for San Francisco. It’s Chapultepec, and was within easy walking distance of my AirBnB.

Chapultepec Castle

One of the sights in the park is Chapultepec Castle, originally built in the 18th century for Mexican heads of state (read about it here) and now a museum. Also on a hill, so it provides some vantage points for Mexico City.

Some photos from the lovely day I spent at Chapultepec Castle:

The Frida Kahlo Museo and Coyoacan

The Frida Kahlo Museum in CDMX is literally the house she lived in with artist Diego Rivera, repurposed. It’s in a barrio called Coyoacan, which was a small town at one time but has been long since swallowed up by Mexico City.

It was about 20 minutes away by Uber. One of the great things about Mexico which I haven’t yet mentioned is that if you’re a senior (a persona mayor) you can take advantage of lots of discounts. I got one for the entrance to this museum which (if I remember correctly) was the peso equivalent of $1.50, so like 30 pesos or something.

To be honest, I did not know much about Frida Kahlo before going to the museum, which is odd I know because she’s so popular. You can read about her life and art here.

Here are some shots I took of the house and its contents:

The midcentury house from interior patio.

Coyoacan

The neighborhood surrounding the Frida Kahlo Museum was also quite lovely – quiet, leafy, narrow streets, old buildings. A church and a square, a fountain (with coyotes, which is what Coyoacan means – place of the coyotes) and markets, etc.

I was there on a Saturday and some quinceanera photos were being taken while I was in the square. Here are some photos of Coyoacan:

I have some random photos of CDMX I’ll share in a subsequent post, so that’s it for Trip to Mexico, Mexico City Part 3.

And We Went to Guadalajara

We made it! In front of the Jalisco State Government Building in GDL

Seems like he’s beckoning.

GDL Cathedral

Detail GDL Cathedral

Plan ahead.

Typical traffic.

Stone Eagle Monument in GDL.

I like the color. We had Birria while in GDL.

Chandelier in Tlaquepaque.

I liked this building, it’s a magic shop.

In front of Vicente Fernandez’s ranch.

With Mexican Superstar Vicente Fernandez.

Mexican History mural in Chapala.

Blogger in front of the mural.

Dave Arnold and I at Chapala (Ajijic)

Plaza Photo GDL.

Old School in Tlaquepaque.

Me and masks. Must have been that insomnia day!

Wires, building, door, rails.

Historic Center shot.

Mariachi Band in the Plaza.

A little bit of found gay on a sidestreet.

It was fashion week in GDL. Literally.

Divine Decay.

On the corner.

Green detail of building.

Dave in front of one of the plaza fountains.

Some big ass doors on that church.

Flower lane in Chapala.

This is beauty School, GDL style.

At the Cafe Madrid, GDL.

Three Mexican ladies and their ice cream in Tlaquepaque.

More of the mural in Chapala.

Another Plaza fountain shot.

Courtyard of the Hotel Morales, GDL

Cathedral Night shot

Another plaza view.

Vicente Fernandez’s guitar-shaped pool.

Building detail, GDL.

Stations of the Cross lit up with little lights, Tlaquepaque.

My future patio! In Tlaquepaque.

Basilica Ceiling.

AA in GDL, next to the Michoacana.

Who? Oh, my brother David and I. To see it. Because I wanted to go to Mexico. Because it was his birthday. Because I was interested in seeing Lake Chapala, where large numbers of U.S. expatriates go. It’s pretty there, not sure it would be too stimulating. Chapala, that is. Perhaps you bring your own stimulation. Affordable most definitely.

So, to answer the question, is it safe to go to Guadalajara? I can answer that. Yes, it was fine. The scariest thing that happened to me over the course of our short, 4 night stay was that one night I had trouble sleeping. I have insomnia sometimes; I can hardly blame that on Mexico. (That damn Obama!)

The people we met there were lovely and they were POLITE. They had MANNERS. I’m not talking just about service people at hotels or restaurants, but people on the street. Imagine that, what a concept! Someone’s mama raised that country right. OK, there were dark alleys, I wouldn’t rush to venture down. There were lots of insanely armed police and security guards all over. I wouldn’t confront them. If you have a modicum of the usual street sense that you’d need in any place like L.A., NY, Chicago, New Orleans, etc., you’d feel pretty safe in Guadalajara. Don’t let the scaredy cat warnings you find on social media and from the state department frighten you. If you’re not going to confront the government of Mexico or the drug cartels, my opinion is, it’s as safe or safer than living in a place like I do, Los Angeles, where really bad things happen to people every day.

OK, end rant. Now for the pictures. I like taking pictures of buildings and parts of buildings, always wondering what is behind the walls, who built the building, who lives there or works there, what their lives are like, etc. So some of these are likely moody that way. Since I live in a place where everything is always new and very dry, old and weathered and moldy (as in lots of humidity) always fascinates me. So enjoy. I will comment on some of the photos directly.

UPDATE October 16 2015 – I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that the Guadalajara area can be dangerous to your health if you’re a member of a cartel or the military or the police. Less than a week after our return, this article on an arrest appeared in the L.A. Times.

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