Guanajuato Archives

On the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato, the ETN bus ride from San Miguel de Allende was only a couple of hours, if that. Another hill town, it’s the eponymous capital of the Mexican state of Guanajuato.

Also like San Miguel de Allende, a UNESCO Heritage Site. Fascinating city built on and into hills, with staircases, at least one funicular, and below ground streets in tunnels (which I read used to be rivers or creeks).

Homes are often painted in colorful pastels on the many hills (see pix). The Airbnb where I stayed in Guanajuato was part of a complex that included several Airbnb units, as well as an enormous common patio as well as an attached restaurant/coffeehouse.

Shortly after I checked in it was time for lunch, so I snapped this picture from the little restaurant right after a downpour began:

Las Cuatro Puertas cafe, looking out at Tapetepa

You can see the painted houses on the hill opposite. (The young couple walking on the sidewalk across the street was perfectly framed in the doorway kissing, but I wasn’t quick enough to get the shot!)

Centro

Like so many historical city centers in Mexico, Guanajuato is also centered around a church, this one being the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato. The first time I walked over there, the day I got to the city, there was already a procession and some kind of celebration (involving costumed skits, I don’t know what of though) in front of the church.

There were guys up in the bell tower throwing firecrackers, a band playing and also singing coming from inside the church. Quite the cacophony but totally intriguing and enjoyable.

The AirBnb

As mentioned, I stayed at an AirBnb that was on Calle Tepetapa which turns into Avenida Juarez (kind of the main drag to the center of the old town). It was run by a couple who had several units to rent out, as well as being the owners/operators of the cafe in front.

The unit I stayed in was hidden in the back, down several flights of stairs, across a bridge and in back of a huge shared patio, so although in the center of town, was sufficiently quiet and also felt very secure. Some photos:

Mercado Hidalgo, Funicular

Couple of other notable sights in Centro: The giant Hidalgo market, mostly indoors but with a significant spillover to adjacent patios under a lot of shade trees. Most of the vendors sold food items but there was a little bit of everything here. Loved this building, originally designed as a train depot but ending as a market.

The funicular goes up to the statue of El Pipila, a hero of the Mexican independence era. There are outstanding views from up top, also lots of food and souvenir vendors. If you’re more adventurous than I was, you can walk up or down through the warren of narrow alleys and staircases. Some photos:

Las Minas

Guanajuato was at the center of silver mining for a long historical period, as it sits in the middle of one of the richest silver mining areas the world has known (the Valenciana Mine). I took a short trip up the hill to the mines and did the tour, which was underground and I do not have photos of.

It was very interesting, somewhat claustrophobic (but I was OK). The guide was Spanish-speaking only, so I got a few things here and there but where I was able to read placards it filled in most of the picture.

The mine entrance I went to (Bocamina San Cayetano) was right behind the church Templo de San Cayetano Confesor, which has altars filled with locally produced silver artifacts.

Some photos:

I liked this building in the mines area.

Other Guanajuato

Last but certainly not least, some random shots around the city, including my visit to Las Momias – the mummies, perhaps Guanajuato’s most infamous “sight.” Others I will identify in the captions. So much for this portion of the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato. Next up: On to Guadalajara and Lake Chapala.

I wanted to spend a few days on my Mexico Trip in San Miguel de Allende, or SMA as I’ve seen it short-handed. It’s long been a place with lots of immigrants (or expats or whatever you want to call them) from the U.S. and Canada.

Even though I read somewhere that it was kind of “Disneyland version of Mexico for expats” I really wanted to check it out for myself.

Was only there for three days and nights but I found it delightful.

Situated on a number of hills in a kind of “bowl,” there are amazing vistas of the town from all over but especially along the rim.

Centro Historico and sights there

The older, colonial part of town spans a few different hills in the center of the city. At the top of the biggest one stands the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, a beautiful church, somewhat salmon-colored.

Across from the church is the leafy plaza Jardin Allende. As you might expect, a central gathering spot for tourists and locals alike (or at least it seemed to me). Lots of food, vendors, musicians, people watching.

Here’s some photos from the Centro Historico area of San Miguel de Allende:

I enjoyed the way so many doorways were framed with flowers or other decorations.

Jardin Botanico

One of the places I would not miss is the Botanical Garden, or El Charco del Ingenio, which sits on the edge of town up on a ridge.

It has a few pretty easy yet private trails showing flora and some fauna from this area of Mexico’s Central Highlands. It also is the location of an old aqueduct which still has a lot of the ruined infrastructure from that era still visible.

I spent a few lovely, quiet hours there and had some fresh juice and water before leaving. Since the (short) way back to town was all downhill, I decided to trust the GPS on the phone and walk. It was a hot hike but worth it, as I had to go through some of SMA’s tonier areas. So, if you’re adventurous. . .

Photos from the Jardin Botanico:

The Airbnb

This time (as opposed to CDMX) I did take a few photos of the Airbnb. It was on three levels: ground floor was a full kitchen with a table and chairs. Up one flight of outside stairs was the bedroom, closet and bathroom level. Another flight of stairs led you to the roof deck (sometimes they call this a mirador in Mexico).

Un Poco Mas

Thus ended my Mexico Trip sojourn to San Miguel de Allende. Back to the Bus Station to catch the ETN to Guanajuato (next post). Some random shots to end with. . .