Category Archives: Gay Senior Travel

Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta

On to the final part of the Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta!

I was a little worried about morning traffic from Chapala to the Central de Autobuses de Guadalajara in Tlaquepaque, but I needn’t have been. An acquaintance of Chris and Terry’s who drove a cab picked me at the designated time and got me there in less than half an hour.

The ETN bus ride took about 6 hours. Once in PV mid-afternoon, I called an Uber from the bus station (which is in the north of the city, not too far from the airport, actually).

In PV I also stayed at an AirBnb. (In fact the only hotel I stayed at the entire trip was the Real Maestranza in Guadalajara.) It was on a crazy hill (see photos). I can’t say that I wasn’t warned, as the place description and the all the reviews mentioned it.

Beachfront/Zona Romantica

PV is well-known as one of Mexico’s premier beach resort cities which is also extremely popular with the LGBT community (both Mexican and foreigners). The week I happened to be there coincided with Gay Pride Week there, so there was probably even more going on in that regard than usual.

You’ve Got Friends in Puerto Vallarta

It was great to end the trip in PV for a few reasons, not the least of which is that I had three friends who happened to be there: Michael, a friend from LA who lives in PV about half the year; James, another LA friend who was on vacation for a few days there; and Jim, that friend who moved to Mexico City who was also on a little vacation in PV (and who has since moved from CDMX to PV).

I have to admit that as I get older I’m becoming one of those people whose fascination with the beach ends at the edge of the sand, looking out. It’s so pretty! It smells so nice!

But I don’t really want to lie in the hot sand with my body slathered in oils (to which the sand will stick) to frolic in waves of questionable cleanliness. (I guess I’ve turned into that guy.)

But I was down for long walks along the Malecon, which was the best way to get from where I was staying, a couple of kms north of the main touristy area, the Zona Romantica (which is also the gay area).

Doesn’t quite capture how steep/treacherous this hill to the Airbnb was, but you get an idea. I loved it.

One of the best things I did was go to dinner with James at Casa Kimberly, a fine restaurant located in Liz Taylor‘s old Puerto Vallarta house. Here’s a photo of me on the footbridge there:

Vallarta Botanical Garden

One of the days Michael took me to the Vallarta Botanical Garden (along with Billie, his pup). Well worth the trip. We walked around the grounds, looked at flowers, plants and some fauna (I saw an iguana! In the wild!) and then had lunch. A perfect activity for the men of a certain age (and dogs of a certain age). We took a cab back into town and I thought that would be the last ride of my life – the guy was constantly passing on the two lane cliffside road.

But — here I am. Adios Mexico Trip: Puerto Vallarta – till next time.

Michael’s dog Billie went with us to the Garden

Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala

The bus trip from Guanajuato to Guadalajara took about four hours. I had been here before, and also to Lake Chapala, which is about 30 miles south of the city. The Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala began with a ride on the city’s newest rail line (Linea tres), which conveniently went directly from the bus station to the Centro.

I stayed at the Hotel Real Maestranza, just a couple of blocks from the Centro stop so I was able to walk there on a lovely afternoon. It was a beautiful modern hotel, with a gym I didn’t get to use (sadly). Price-wise it was extremely reasonable. I’d go back anytime.

Guadalajara Centro area

I mainly wanted to see my friends Chris and (his husband) Terry, who were old friends of mine from California and who’d made the move to Mexico. They owned a home in Chapala and also had an apartment in Guadalajara, not far from where I stayed.

While waiting to connect with Chris, I did do a little walking tour of the University area, which is just to the west of the Centro:

This statue of Antonio Alcalde is somewhat imposing and it makes him look quite frightening but Wikipedia says:

“The people came to respect their bishop and knew him best for his gentle and affable attitude while noting him as a jovial but direct individual. He had a bed of simple sheepskin on the bare ground and would use wood as his pillow. He wore a rough blanket in the winter and fasted often. He often fed on vegetables but would sometimes add meat to his meal on some occasions”

Among other accomplishments, he was one of the founders of the University of Guadalajara – so perhaps not as scary as the statue suggests.

Lake Chapala/Ajijic

I spent several days in Chapala (also seeing Ajijic, the adjacent town) at an AirBnb, just a couple of blocks from the lake itself. Apparently the lake is safe enough to swim in, though I did not see any swimmers while I was there.

It’s Mexico’s largest lake and quite beautiful (see photos). Close enough to Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city, it’s a popular and convenient getaway. Also, Lake Chapala and environs (including Ajijic) have large expat communities from the U.S. and Canada.

My old friends Chris and Terry have lived there now for about three years (from California). Some of the views below are from their rooftop mirador in the neighborhood San Antonio Tlayacapan, along the lake between Chapala and Ajijic.

A great few days for the Mexico Trip: Guadalajara/Chapala. Next, and finally, on to Puerto Vallarta.

Mexico Trip: Guanajuato

On the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato, the ETN bus ride from San Miguel de Allende was only a couple of hours, if that. Another hill town, it’s the eponymous capital of the Mexican state of Guanajuato.

Also like San Miguel de Allende, a UNESCO Heritage Site. Fascinating city built on and into hills, with staircases, at least one funicular, and below ground streets in tunnels (which I read used to be rivers or creeks).

Homes are often painted in colorful pastels on the many hills (see pix). The Airbnb where I stayed in Guanajuato was part of a complex that included several Airbnb units, as well as an enormous common patio as well as an attached restaurant/coffeehouse.

Shortly after I checked in it was time for lunch, so I snapped this picture from the little restaurant right after a downpour began:

Las Cuatro Puertas cafe, looking out at Tapetepa

You can see the painted houses on the hill opposite. (The young couple walking on the sidewalk across the street was perfectly framed in the doorway kissing, but I wasn’t quick enough to get the shot!)

Centro

Like so many historical city centers in Mexico, Guanajuato is also centered around a church, this one being the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato. The first time I walked over there, the day I got to the city, there was already a procession and some kind of celebration (involving costumed skits, I don’t know what of though) in front of the church.

There were guys up in the bell tower throwing firecrackers, a band playing and also singing coming from inside the church. Quite the cacophony but totally intriguing and enjoyable.

The AirBnb

As mentioned, I stayed at an AirBnb that was on Calle Tepetapa which turns into Avenida Juarez (kind of the main drag to the center of the old town). It was run by a couple who had several units to rent out, as well as being the owners/operators of the cafe in front.

The unit I stayed in was hidden in the back, down several flights of stairs, across a bridge and in back of a huge shared patio, so although in the center of town, was sufficiently quiet and also felt very secure. Some photos:

Mercado Hidalgo, Funicular

Couple of other notable sights in Centro: The giant Hidalgo market, mostly indoors but with a significant spillover to adjacent patios under a lot of shade trees. Most of the vendors sold food items but there was a little bit of everything here. Loved this building, originally designed as a train depot but ending as a market.

The funicular goes up to the statue of El Pipila, a hero of the Mexican independence era. There are outstanding views from up top, also lots of food and souvenir vendors. If you’re more adventurous than I was, you can walk up or down through the warren of narrow alleys and staircases. Some photos:

Las Minas

Guanajuato was at the center of silver mining for a long historical period, as it sits in the middle of one of the richest silver mining areas the world has known (the Valenciana Mine). I took a short trip up the hill to the mines and did the tour, which was underground and I do not have photos of.

It was very interesting, somewhat claustrophobic (but I was OK). The guide was Spanish-speaking only, so I got a few things here and there but where I was able to read placards it filled in most of the picture.

The mine entrance I went to (Bocamina San Cayetano) was right behind the church Templo de San Cayetano Confesor, which has altars filled with locally produced silver artifacts.

Some photos:

I liked this building in the mines area.

Other Guanajuato

Last but certainly not least, some random shots around the city, including my visit to Las Momias – the mummies, perhaps Guanajuato’s most infamous “sight.” Others I will identify in the captions. So much for this portion of the Mexico Trip: Guanajuato. Next up: On to Guadalajara and Lake Chapala.

Mexico Trip: San Miguel de Allende

I wanted to spend a few days on my Mexico Trip in San Miguel de Allende, or SMA as I’ve seen it short-handed. It’s long been a place with lots of immigrants (or expats or whatever you want to call them) from the U.S. and Canada.

Even though I read somewhere that it was kind of “Disneyland version of Mexico for expats” I really wanted to check it out for myself.

Was only there for three days and nights but I found it delightful.

Situated on a number of hills in a kind of “bowl,” there are amazing vistas of the town from all over but especially along the rim.

Centro Historico and sights there

The older, colonial part of town spans a few different hills in the center of the city. At the top of the biggest one stands the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, a beautiful church, somewhat salmon-colored.

Across from the church is the leafy plaza Jardin Allende. As you might expect, a central gathering spot for tourists and locals alike (or at least it seemed to me). Lots of food, vendors, musicians, people watching.

Here’s some photos from the Centro Historico area of San Miguel de Allende:

I enjoyed the way so many doorways were framed with flowers or other decorations.

Jardin Botanico

One of the places I would not miss is the Botanical Garden, or El Charco del Ingenio, which sits on the edge of town up on a ridge.

It has a few pretty easy yet private trails showing flora and some fauna from this area of Mexico’s Central Highlands. It also is the location of an old aqueduct which still has a lot of the ruined infrastructure from that era still visible.

I spent a few lovely, quiet hours there and had some fresh juice and water before leaving. Since the (short) way back to town was all downhill, I decided to trust the GPS on the phone and walk. It was a hot hike but worth it, as I had to go through some of SMA’s tonier areas. So, if you’re adventurous. . .

Photos from the Jardin Botanico:

The Airbnb

This time (as opposed to CDMX) I did take a few photos of the Airbnb. It was on three levels: ground floor was a full kitchen with a table and chairs. Up one flight of outside stairs was the bedroom, closet and bathroom level. Another flight of stairs led you to the roof deck (sometimes they call this a mirador in Mexico).

Un Poco Mas

Thus ended my Mexico Trip sojourn to San Miguel de Allende. Back to the Bus Station to catch the ETN to Guanajuato (next post). Some random shots to end with. . .